|by Will Wright|
This morning I wake up and I’m like “whoa, Matthias, what am I gonna do today?” I could hear the sea from my bed, and I’m like, “yes Mattie, I’m gonna hit the Point”. I love this. It’s not like ‘can I surf today?’ but the question is always ‘shall I surf today?’ So, I’m like, “yes, I wake up to paradise, I live in paradise”. I leave my place, and walk into the morning sun, hitting my face, hitting my face, oh man. So good man! And I’m walking to the beach, onto
the beach. And I’m like:
I remember to give thanks for this.